Unfortunately it seems to be impossible in current version (1.7).
It looks like the view shown on map is the "copy" of the one you return in mapView:markerInfoWindow:
Any messages you send to this view will have effect only next time you tap on a marker. Although not all the messages sent to this view seem to be delivered to final view (the one we see). E.g. you can change its frame size, but not origin (position can be set by marker's infoWindowAnchor
property), you can change the layer, add subviews, but can't handle touches of its subviews (at least I couldn't hack it)..
Hope this information helps and really hope they will allow more flexibility in future versions.