You are creating the controls the first time the page is loaded, but the Page_Load event is too late to add controls to the page and have WebForms know about that.
On the initial page load, somewhere between the OnInit and Page_Load, WebForms makes a note of what controls are currently on the page and sets them up in the view state and all of that stuff, so that they next time you post back it knows those controls should be there. If you don't add your controls until Page_Load, WebForms isn't really paying attention any more to what you're adding to the page, so they next time you post back it doesn't know to put those controls on the page.
Move your CreateControls call into the OnInit method. This will tell WebForms at the appropriate time to create the controls (about the same time that any controls from the .aspx markup get added, although slightly later). Then WebForms will be aware of those controls and will apply any view state necessary (if it's a postback), and then finally on Page_Load you can muck with the control data with your UpdatePage call.
protected override void OnInit(EventArgs e)
{
base.OnInit(e);
CreateControls();
}
Think of OnInit as "put all of the controls on the page and wire up event handlers".
Think of Page_Load as "put data into the controls that are already there".