It depends on what behavior you want for your application with the error.
If a generic error page works for the application - then setup an error page in URL mappings and ignore the error in the controller.
Do you need a nice custom error that is specific for that case - (or possibly display an alternate page? ), if so then you'd need to a try catch (or do some fun with URL mapping and creating an error controller). The objections that come up in Exception handling in Grails controllers arise around the amount of code required for the error handling in the controller vs the rest of the application - with the error handling code being ~40% of each controller method. This causes the code to seem bad/bloated (and apparently violate the CodeNarc "CatchException" rule).