Your broken view does not render the fields because it does not try to render the current step. The default wizard template has something like this in it:
<div tal:define="form nocall:view/currentStep"
tal:replace="structure form/render" />
which looks up the current step and renders it. But you've overridden that with your own template which just calls the ploneform-macros, which is a generic z3c.form thing that knows nothing about the existence of steps.
You should stick with the default wizard template instead of overriding it, or if you need to customize it you should copy the default wizard.pt from collective.z3cform.wizard as a starting point.
Meanwhile, your 'almost' view is indeed almost working. The problem here is that the wizard's default template renders the step's template in the middle...but your step's template is set up to produce a full html page (because it uses the master macro from main_template). If you need to customize this template, I would again recommend starting by copying the default step template from c.z.wizard (wizard-step.pt)